Birmingham sunset and sunrise from the Octagon

by Damien Walmsley 20/09/2024 20/09/2024

Sunset and sunrise, the Octagon, Birmingham City Centre, September, 2024.

The sun people.

The golden ticket on a beautiful September evening was a 155 metres journey to the top of the Octagon skyscraper. The invite from Core-marketing on behalf of Paradise Birmingham brought out the great and the good of the photographic fraternity in Birmingham. There were many people disappointed that they were not there to celebrate the “topping out” of this iconic skyscraper. Over 60 photographers gathered at the base of the Octagon waiting to be taken up the 49 floors to the very top of the building. Our “lift” was a hoist which was a platform cage that pointed away from the building. This took up the first 25 photographers. Then there was an anxious wait as the hoist came back down for the rest of us. We did not want to miss the sunset. The cage of the hoist was bordered by a metal grill and as we climbed the outside of the building to the very top , our mobile phones recorded the journey.

We were greeted with a beautiful golden sun that was setting in the West over Edgbaston reservoir. The 360 degrees view was spectacular and with time the familiar landmarks around Birmingham came into focus. There was Broad Street, the Rotunda, the Cube and the BT Tower. Further away the Aston Expressway together with various mosques and churches scattered around the horizon could be seen. The serious photographers were very active. Cameras were pointed at the view and many pictures were taken. There were two levels at the crown of the Octagon, the main level with a metal barrier around the periphery and then a central raised column accessed by a metal staircase, provided a clearer view. There were various cameras on display ranging from super zoom telescopic lenses right down to the humble mobile phone. The social media channels were going to be saturated with views of Birmingham. Nicky Warwickshire, James never Jim and myself (dammodammo) were there representing the IgersbirminghamUK team!

Sunset was upon us and we gathered to pay homage to the setting of the sun. I was reminded of the Bowie song “Memory of a Free Festival” and the lyrics of the song resonated with me. “The sun machine is going down and we are going to have a party”. This time there was no music just the quiet clicking of camera shutters. However, the fun wasn’t finished. The lights of the city came on and car headlights lights started streaking down the streets like small silver dots. Suddenly you could see into the illuminated offices hidden during the day by reflective glass. Trams and buses were gracefully moving along the streets. Particular views that I enjoyed included Moor Street station and the Birmingham canal navigations.

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Needless to say we all took so many pictures that saturation point was quickly reached and then the time came to descend back down the hoist and catch the train home. In my excitement, I forgot to get a picture of the moonrise but luckily many other photographers filled that void and I was able to see their views of the moon. One photographer Pete Davies was at Edgbaston reservoir and he captured the moonrise next to the Octagon. You can just make out the photographers on the top.

We were discussing the visit and how spectacular the tower construction was on the train home. One of the Octagon project leaders was on the same train home and he gave us a fascinating insight into how the structure had been built and what was involved in its construction. Our conversation took in previous buildings such as the Cube and what was in store for Birmingham in the future. This was a really enjoyable evening and I knew that there was still the morning sunrise to look forward to. However the weather forecast didn’t look too promising but then again we wait and see.

The sunrise shift.

Getting up at 4:00am was not easy but once I got moving, I was wide awake. After a quick breakfast and walking the dog, I drove into Birmingham and parked up in Brindley Place. Birmingham City Centre was very quiet with only a few people moving around. I walked briskly through Centenary square, past the library, into Chamberlain place and on to the Octagon for the morning session. There were far fewer photographers gathered at the base of the building. Getting up early appears to be a much more difficult activity for a photographer than the evening sunset. The weather was dull and the golden glow of yesterday evening was quickly forgotten as we checked in and made our way to the “hoist”. Soon we were back travelling on the outside of the building. This was now familiar territory and recording the journey up was much easier the second time around.

Going up the Octogen

When we arrived at the crown, the first thing I noticed was the wind and the cold. Night had not loosened its grip of the new day and the bright city lights were still shining. I got out my camera and started taking pictures. There were some opportunities to take some long exposures of the rush hour traffic that was starting to stream into the City. Reviewing other people’s photographs, I realized that I had missed some buildings and I made sure that I got St. Paul’s church and the Big Pen in the Jewellery Quarter. There were a few other places that I had forgotten all about from last night and this was the most exciting part of the visit, taking new views of the city.

Slowly the dawn crept forward and banished the dark of the night. The wind seemed to be increasing and I was glad that I had my jumper with me to add to the layers of clothers that I was wearing. A mist started rolling in and unsurprisingly, there was no sunrise but I knew the sun was out there somewhere. With my remaining time, I started looking for unusual shots around the building. BBC West Midlands radio were present, interviewing people who were getting ready for the topping out ceremony that was taking place later that day.

This visit was a quieter affair. Mindfulness is a wonderful feeling and I stood taking in the view which was much more rewarding than just wanting to use my camera. I had taken all the pictures that I needed and went back down the hoist for the final time. There was a touch of sadness as I had really enjoyed my two visits to the top of the Octagon. This 49 floor skyscraper is ready for future residential living and the plan is to rent out the apartments. The building will soon be completed and then the army of construction workers will move on to the next tall building. Birmingham is an exciting place and is changing all the time. I hope to go up the next building that gets finished, but in the meantime, I left with good thoughts as I wandered back through the city to my car. There were more workers out and about getting ready for the day, I had already completed a day on top of the Octagon and now I was getting ready for a second day. I looked forward to getting my pictures together and telling people how much I had enjoyed my visit to the Octagon.

Acknowledgements

Many thanks to all at the Octagon who allowed these amazing visits to take place. I do hope you enjoyed reading about my visit to the Octagon. Thank you to Paradise Birmingham and Core-Marketing for the opportunity.

I have given a link to some of my other visits to skyscrapers and hope you continue to read my photographic journey.

The Octagon is the new kid on the block

The popular key – 103 Colmore Row

London Times – The London Horizon from Horizon22

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Birmingham heritage week – Visiting the Greek orthodox cathedral

by Damien Walmsley 14/09/2024 14/09/2024

Greek Orthodox Cathedral of the Dormition of the Mother of God and St. Andrew, Birmingham Heritage week, September 2024

This cathedral is a Birmingham hidden gem. I have walked past the building several times and always wondered what the place was like inside. Located on Summer Hill Terrace, the cathedral sits on the edge of the Jewellery quarter. Summer Hill is an elevated part of Birmingham and when you stand by the cathedral you are overlooking a busy dual carriageway that leads into Birmingham. From here you look over the National Indoor Arena with a good view of the new shiny skyscrapers that are being built in the city centre. The streets around the Cathedral are very narrow with a one-way system. The church has access to parking and leaving my car I made my way to the entrance. On this Saturday night, the service of Vespers was taking place. Vespers is a liturgy of evening prayer. Sunset is when the liturgical day starts. The hymns that are sung introduce the day’s themes. This opportunity of visiting the Cathedral to partake in the Vesper’s service was made possible through the Birmingham Heritage Week and invitation of the Church Committee of the Greek Orthodox Cathedral of the Dormition of the Mother of God and St. Andrew.

The rain was coming down and walking through the entrance, there was a warm light flowing outwards welcoming you to the Church. The elders of the cathedral had taken over the church in 1957 and the original stonework with repeating arches is impressive. Overlaying this architecture was an abundance of riches with extensive chandeliers and religious icons both on the walls and at various entrances. The alter was the focus of a large collection of paintings and icons. The Greek Orthodox congregation were very friendly and the singing was beautiful.

Before I knew it the beautiful rendition of the Vespers service was over. One of the Church committee then explained the history of the cathedral and pointed out particular features of interest. Then we were invited to look around the cathedral and then to join everyone for refreshments in the Cathedral hall. The cathedral was full and it was difficult to get good pictures with people moving around. I went for refreshments and then made my way out. To my delight the church happened to be quiet and peaceful and I was able to move around and take pictures with my iPhone. The symmetry of the church caught my imagination and the iPhone is good at working in low light. I particularly enjoyed viewing the icons and the many pictures around the Cathedral. The evening was very memorable and this blog is my attempt to convey the evening through text and pictures.

This is the link to the Birmingham Heritage week.

An evening at the Greek Orthodox Cathedral

I have included a blog on another notable Birmingham Church for you to read.

St Paul’s Church in the spring

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HS2 and 16 acre wood – nature is fighting back.

by Damien Walmsley 09/09/2024 09/10/2024

16 Acre wood, HS@ works, Berkswell, Sept 2024

Sixteen-acre ward has been a project that I started in March 2021, and I have visited the area at regular intervals since. The wood was in the news, when the initial plans for the HS2 line revealed that it would cut into the wood. Therefore, trees were felled, and an old ancient pond was duplicated in a new location nearby. This new pond has signage and chains to protect this nature venture. Over the years, the landscape around the wood has changed drastically. This is my fourth visit to the wood. As with the previous ones, I was interested to see if anything had changed since my visit last year.

Fortunately, my drive to Berkswell village was not difficult as the HS2 works will close access to various roads around the area at a moment’s notice. I parked my car near to St Mary’s Church, Berkswell, and walked along the boardwalk. There is a footpath that runs up the hill over a farmer’s field. This footpath meets up and follows the HS2 route I reached the part of the HS2 track which passes by Sixteen-acre wood and goes onto meet Kenilworth Rd.

A year on and I noticed that the vegetation is starting to reclaim much of the area. The new pond is thriving although it could do with some trees around the parameter. Meanwhile the old pond has not given up and there is still life around an old tree has collapsed into the water. Walking down the designated footpath there is a sharp contrast. On the left side beyond the steel fence the large land moving vehicles were resting as it was a Sunday, a day of rest. The earth had been moved into heaps of brown soil and there were lines of plastic pipes lined up for draining the water. On the right-hand side, the wood looked in a sorry state. Some of the vegetation is recovering but there are still scars around the knocked down trees. Some of the trees looked like scarecrows contrasting against the bleak sky. What did catch my eye was the number of butterflies and dragonflies that were present. Nature is slowly attempting to get back to its feet after being interrupted by the HS2 works.

These pictures show the amount of construction that is happening as the pace of building is now moving quickly. In the midst of this construction, there were some beautiful butterflies and I must have seen around 10 different types of insects. There was a hoard of dragonflies that are living in the stagnant water created around the HS2 trenches. Someone once told me not to worry about HS2 as everything will grow back once the viaducts that are planned are completed. I wait to see if this will be true as the scars in the land look very deep. I now have my 4th entry into my 16 acre wood project and I will return next year to see what progress has happened and whether nature is coping with the changes forced on the landscape.

You may also like to see 16 Acre Wood in 2013.
My past entries of 16 Acre Wood show the ongoing changes and the blog posts are listed below.

The continuing story of HS2 and 16 Acre wood

The damage to 16 acre wood

Sixteen Acre Wood

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The Octagon is the new kid on the block

by Damien Walmsley 22/08/2024 22/08/2024

The newest and tallest building in Birmingham is the Octagon which is 155 m (509 ft) tall. The skyscraper will have 49 floors and is dominating the Birmingham skyline. The picture shows how dominant this building will be across the City. The platforms at Snow Hill Station are uneven and puddles form after the rain. I took this one in a large puddle to show the dominating structure. I am looking forward to taking more pictures of the completed skyscraper. Watch this space.

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Photographing the Library of Birmingham

by Damien Walmsley 21/08/2024 21/08/2024

The Library of Birmingham is one of the most popular visitor attractions in the UK. Built in September 2013, the building is spectacular both inside and out. There is so much to photograph and there are so many different layers to the building. There is a photo opportunity around every corner. Since the opening in 2013, I regularly visit the building with the aim of taking photographs during the different seasons. You will find many pictures of this building throughout my blog.

This set of photographs is from my recent visit in August 2023. I took several pictures with my iPhone as I moved up the escalators. I then went out onto the first balcony and took several reflective pictures. When the library first opened this was one of the favourite pictures styles that appeared on the social media channels. There is one new building that features in my pictures and this is the Library’s tall neighbour, the Octagon. This 49 floor skyscraper is the tallest building in Birmingham and is nearing completion.

This is a link to the next blog which features photographs of the Octagon as it now dominates the Birmingham Skyline.

Some more exciting views of the Library may be seen in this weblink

The Library of Birmingham

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The virtual world of repetitive beats

by Damien Walmsley 18/08/2024 19/08/2024

In pursuit of repetative beats, August, 2024

I was a student in Manchester in the seventies when punk and new wave were the big thing. I caught up with the New Romantics music whilst in London. In the eighties it was all about getting my qualifications and working for promotion. Family arrived and that was my life. The rave culture happened and it was just news headlines. I loved the music and often read about the rave gatherings that were taking place in Coventry and Birmingham. Sadly, I never attended a rave although the popular music of Orbital, Future Sound of London, Massive Attack and Underworld was very much a fav at the time.

When I read about “In pursuit of repetitive beats” at Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery, I knew that I must experience it. This art installation transports you into a wild and immersive VR experience. You are thrown into a story set in 1989 about attending an illegal rave around Coventry. The story focusses on three young people attending the event alongside the accounts by police who were trying to stop the illegal raves from taking place.

Once I was kitted out with Virtual Reality headset and hand controllers, I was ready to go into this virtual world. The experience was surreal. You followed the story by picking up leaflets with your virtual hands and there was a talking head providing information as you removed around your virtual world. In one part, I was flying towards a gigantic eye with electricity bolts steaming out of my hands. It was so cool. I became immersed in the story of an illegal rave. Realistic car journeys, the police chase and then the rave itself. All the time I was moving and dancing with the beats of the music. I must have looked a real sight whilst I was in a virtual world! Still such great fun. Attention to detail was spot on.

Whilst I am unable to provide pictures of the VR experience there were pre-show displays at the entrance to the experience. This detail is from the phone box display which was set up to show how people communicated and navigated to the raid before the advent of mobile phones.

The trailer for In Pursuit of repetitive beats.

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Stirchley Taster with the Prism Photography network

by Damien Walmsley 05/08/2024 07/08/2024

Stirchley has many good memories as a place to visit. Our first family drink, after lockdown restrictions were relaxed, took place on a cold night in May at an outside table at Birmingham Brewing Company. I have also visited the other two breweries Attic and Glass House, the latter brewery is on the other side of the canal and is just in the Stirchley boundary.

I took part in previous Birmingham half marathons when the route passed along Bourneville Lane with a return down Mary Vale road. In the process, you ran along part of the Stirchley High Street. The Birmingham suburb is easy to reach using the No 45/47 bus route that connects the city via the Pershore Road. All this contrasts with how Stirchley would have looked in 1600 as the area got its name from pastures where cattle grazed undisturbed. There are records of Roman roads that went to the nearby fort which is now the University of Birmingham campus. Stirchley does have history. These days the suburb is recognised as one of the best places to live in the Midlands, an accolade given by the Sunday Times

Therefore when I heard about an in-depth photographic project involving Stirchley then I took advantage of the unique offering from the Prism Photographic Network. The aim is to develop a documentary photography project focussed on the neighbourhood of Stirchley. The course is run by Oksana Bischin with support from the Prism Network. Full details are on their web site. I attended the second of two taster workshops where we had a lecture on an aspect of photography followed by a photographic walk in Stirchley. When the course starts in September, there will be several themes which will come together allowing participants to produce an exhibition of the group work.

We gathered at Stirchley baths which is a beautifully restored community centre. A representative from the Stirchley Residents Association outlined their work and extolled the benefits of living in the area. She was not a great fan of the Stirchley beer mile but recognised the benefits such activity creates for Stirchley. She highlighted the presence of several industrial units either side of the high street and the layout of the terraced houses that are around the area. After introductions, Oksana introduced the camera topic which was how to use the program controls on the camera and then Francesco discussed Typography using the work of Tom Hicks who created “Black Country Type”. After a question-and-answer session, it was time for us to discover Stirchley with our cameras. I am not sure what the shopkeepers and coffee shop owners thought of the small army of photographers patrolling down the street, taking pictures of their shops.

Before I arrived at the baths, I spent a few minutes taking photographs and scouting the area. There was an opportune moment as carpets were being moved at the shops with the Stirchley Gorilla overseeing the activity. On the way onto the street, I like to spend time by myself and I noticed some letter boxes and the typography of 70 in a doorway. But there was also a need to stay with the group and see what the others were up to. Being a Saturday morning, there was a great deal of activity so the picture taking began. One shopkeeper came out to check what we were doing, other people just wandered by keen to get on with their shopping.

The high street is a mix of lively coffee shops and general shops. Several shop fronts have roller shutters that ensure privacy. A lone gorilla logo on one of these shutters adds colour. After photographing the high street we turned right and walked along Ash Tree road onto Charlotte Road. I like the style of the houses and my eye is drawn to the names and dates of the houses. We walked along Mary Vale Road to the Industrial estate that houses Attic Brewery.

Then it was time to get a brunch and talk about the pictures we took and those that got away. The taster session gave me an insight into how the course will develop. I like the idea of the themes as outlined and the idea of curating one’s work for an exhibition.

As a postscript, I discovered on my research of Stirchley an informative website created by users which is a mix of photographic links and historical notes. I am sure that this will prove to be a good background resource and provide a source of inspiration.

Mapping Stirchley is a Walkspace project that came out of the spring lockdown of 2020.

Mapping Stirchley

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Back to backs 20th anniversary visit

by Damien Walmsley 03/08/2024 03/08/2024

When visiting the Back to Backs in Birmingham, your booking includes an hour and a half tour of the premises. The buildings were built with speed and were cheap to both buy and live in. In 1870, Birmingham was undergoing tremendous change as people were coming into the city looking for work. The backs to backs were quickly put up to accommodate the increasing population. The buildings now blend into the modern landscape around this area of Birmingham known as Southside.

Our National Trust guide was Dick, who met us outside on Hurst street and after an introductory talk of the background to the Back to Backs led us into the buildings. We started in the yard and this was followed by the inside tour of the Back to backs known as Court 15. The rooms are small and negotiating the staircases between the properties is challenging. As we progressed through the 4 houses that make up the Back to Backs, Dick kept us entertained and informed about how life would have been. Through his descriptions of the people, we began to understand what living in these cramped houses meant and learnt how these humble residences were much loved family homes.

Pictures from the Yard of Court 15

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There is a bike, skateboard, a pram and other games that would be part of life.

There are four houses to visit and the first one is an early reproduction of life in the 1870’s. The second house exemplified life of a large family. There were 11 children and often a couple of lodgers were taken in. They all lived in the same place. Space was so scarce that the chest of drawers doubled up as a cot for the baby. Birmingham was known as the City of a 1,000 trades and in this house, the family were proficient at glass work and in particular glass eyes. The properties changed hands at a regular rate yet the occupants of the third property lived in the Back to Backs for most of their lives. This house illustrated how electricity was introduced and there were other comforts such as a radio.

Court 15 is unusual in that it survived the demolition that took place all around the area. The City removed the back to backs and replaced them with flats and other houses. The reason that these Back to backs survived, is likely to have been the businesses that were associated with them. The National Trust have recreated a tailor’s shop in the final property. George Saunders came from St Kitts and after a variety of jobs set up his tailor’s shop in Court 15. He was an enterprising man and his made to measure suits were sought after by the local clientele. The shop’s position near to the Hippodrome assisted with much of the business in this area.

We started and finished in the communal yard where we visited the communal washhouse. At the end of the tour, I asked Dick if he would be part of my 100 strangers project and he agreed. The picture is taken around the outside toilets which gives an insight to the conditions that people had to endure in the Back to Backs.

There were many details in the Back to backs that caught my eye. The yard has many angles and props that bring the place to life. There are old prams, bottles, skittles to name a few. Each house is a treasure trove of differing objects including chamber pots and mini work tops where craftsmen worked. The living rooms contained items that would have been commonly used by the family. These rooms have been photographed many times before and I am adding to the many records. For myself the journey was fun as much of it reminded me of my own childhood when I was sitting in family houses around Manchester looking up at the pictures on the walls and the pieces of China on the mantlepiece.

The layout of the living quarters were not that dissimilar. The accompanying guidebook is a good companion to your visit to the Back to Backs and beings out more details about the life and times of the people who lived in these unassuming buildings. This year is the 20^thanniversary of the renovation of the Back to Backs by the National Trust and I was pleased to be able to visit after passing them so many times in my walks through Birmingham.

If you enjoyed this blog on the Back to backs then please visit my visits to other National Trust properties on my blog. Just search National Trust. I have added one link but there are many more.

Packwood House and Baddesley Clinton – Two houses that are ready for Christmas

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The brutal beauty of Exchange Square

by Damien Walmsley 25/07/2024 25/07/2024

Exploring Birmingham in the early morning is a great pastime and the city opens up for many different photographic opportunities. One morning in July, I moved towards the law courts with no particular plan other than to take some street photography pictures. My eye always finds something that looks different and as I looked down towards Birmingham Crown Court and the Maclaren building, I noticed a metallic structure in the form of a triangle. I set off to investigate. I discovered a new square amongst all the newly built office blocks and student residences.

The architecture of the square may simply be described as brutal. Lots of concrete pavements and to one side, someone has “planted” three metallic trees with pointed branches that reach up to the sky seeking a sun above the concrete. This is a wonderful place for photography and I took many pictures with both my iPhone and Fujifilm x100vi camera. People stop in the square, taking a seat whilst waiting for their bus to arrive on the Priory Queensway. There is a restaurant on one side of the square that may look out of place but a search on the web shows that it has received good reviews. There is a bleak passageway that leads onto the Masshouse residential buildings. These flats were built around 10 years ago but are now looking a touch tired. A lone Palestinian flag hangs from one of the building balconies. The metal triangle that first caught my eye, is some form of decorative cover which adds to all the sharp angles and hard brutal feel to the square.

In summary another brutalist concrete jungle with the ironic touch of metal trees. The square makes for great photographic opportunities although I am not sure I would wish to live and work in the area.

Web link – if you like concrete then you will enjoy this blog entry.

For the Love of Concrete – Part 2

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HS2 gathers pace at Curzon Street

by Damien Walmsley 16/07/2024 16/07/2024

HS2 progress, Curzon Street, Birmingham 2024

The HS2 construction is transforming the landscape around the Curzon Street building. Once this was a sleepy backwater and a relatively quiet part of Birmingham. However first came Millennium Point and then the ThinkTank museum. Then HS2 rolled into town. Birmingham City University also moved location so that they were near to the station. This series of pictures provides a construction update of the area and the viaducts that will carry the trains into the station which are starting to appear. The area around the Birmingham canal allows a view of the enormous construction taking place.

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A few interesting stories developed whilst I was taking pictures. I added to my 100 strangers project whilst I was walking around the perimeter of the HS2 development works. As I was taking pictures over the canal bridge looking towards the new viaducts for the trains, I met Mace who was from London. He was on a stopover in Birmingham on his journey to Scotland. He immediately engaged me in conversation and was a lively personality. After discussing the state of play of the HS2 and Birmingham, he willingly posed for my 100 strangers’ project. (More of this photographic project at a later date). The sun was out creating lighting difficulties so I asked Mace to stand under the shade. In the portrait, Curzon street is to the right and the view is down towards the ThinkTank museum and Birmingham City University. The new Curzon Street station is further down the road.

Another interesting finding was that to my surprise I found a narrowboat moored up on the other side of the Curzon Street railway bridge near to the Birmingham Gun Barrell proof house. It is a rare sight to see canal boats on this stretch of the canal. However as the area starts to receive more investment then it is likely that such occurrences will be more frequent.

One of my photography projects is to photograph the changes occurring in other places of the HS2 development. You may wish to view the changes to 16 acre wood near Berkswell.

The continuing story of HS2 and 16 Acre wood

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