Why am I so fascinated with Spaghetti Junction? Perhaps it’s the way the urban landscape blends nature with man-made geometry, or the history embedded within the structure. In an alternative life, I imagine myself travelling the motorway system, passing along the M6 and then indicating to join the Aston Expressway into Birmingham. Yet during such journeys in the car, I rarely think about what lies beneath these roads.
The look of an unfinished cathedral within Salford Circus.Movement in the underpass.
Under the concrete pillars that support the motorway network, the space resembles an incomplete cathedral, a place to worship the industry of construction workers, accompanied by the hymns of thundering traffic overhead. Cars and lorries make their presence known through constant noise and vibration. In contrast, the quiet canal network predates the junction. Around the concrete pillars, flows the River Tame and the still waters of Salford Reservoir reflect the motorway traffic. A train line also cuts through the area, all converging at what we know as Spaghetti Junction, or more formally the Gravelly Hill Interchange. The regimented concrete pillars and the patterns created by the elevated roads provide endless photographic opportunities. Inspiration is everywhere.
Waiting for the World Cup draw. So that is where the channel changer is.Careful where you tred.Cycling along the arches.Watch out for the cyclists as they speed along the towpaths.
Back in July, I visited Spaghetti Junction with a group of photographers. One of the highlights of any trip beneath the M6 is the artwork of Bill Drummond. Formerly of the KLF and now a recognised artist, Drummond has been regularly posting his work on a particular wall near the heart of the junction. I was surprised to find the artwork wall completely white. In the photo I took, one of the few pedestrians we encountered beneath Spaghetti Junction walks past the empty space. Although I was disappointed not to capture any of Drummond’s artwork, I’m intrigued to see what reappears here in the coming weeks.
Surveying a white wall at the iconic graffiti site under the M6.
This Spaghetti visit started with a request from a fellow photographer Nicky who knew a photographer friend who had never been to the area before. I agreed to be involved in planning such a walk and enjoyed visiting the place again. John Waine was the visiting photographer and his work is outstanding. Follow the link to see more of his work. If anyone who reads this blog and wishes to visit what lies beneath the motorway then please contact me. Depending on timing and commitments, I will be happy to show them around.
Construction workers on a break.Abandoned trailer.Best seat in the Junction.This has to be posted as it is one of the classic views of the walk along the canal underneath the Junction.
Finally here is an account my last visit under the Interchange and the blog includes links of previous visits.
The golden ticket on a beautiful September evening was a 155 metres journey to the top of the Octagon skyscraper. The invite from Core-marketing on behalf of Paradise Birmingham brought out the great and the good of the photographic fraternity in Birmingham. There were many people disappointed that they were not there to celebrate the “topping out” of this iconic skyscraper. Over 60 photographers gathered at the base of the Octagon waiting to be taken up the 49 floors to the very top of the building. Our “lift” was a hoist which was a platform cage that pointed away from the building. This took up the first 25 photographers. Then there was an anxious wait as the hoist came back down for the rest of us. We did not want to miss the sunset. The cage of the hoist was bordered by a metal grill and as we climbed the outside of the building to the very top , our mobile phones recorded the journey.
Our “hoist” to the top.
We were greeted with a beautiful golden sun that was setting in the West over Edgbaston reservoir. The 360 degrees view was spectacular and with time the familiar landmarks around Birmingham came into focus. There was Broad Street, the Rotunda, the Cube and the BT Tower. Further away the Aston Expressway together with various mosques and churches scattered around the horizon could be seen. The serious photographers were very active. Cameras were pointed at the view and many pictures were taken. There were two levels at the crown of the Octagon, the main level with a metal barrier around the periphery and then a central raised column accessed by a metal staircase, provided a clearer view. There were various cameras on display ranging from super zoom telescopic lenses right down to the humble mobile phone. The social media channels were going to be saturated with views of Birmingham. Nicky Warwickshire, James never Jim and myself (dammodammo) were there representing the IgersbirminghamUK team!
The crown of the Octagon.The view of the sunset over Edgbaston Reservoir.Capturing the sunset.
Sunset was upon us and we gathered to pay homage to the setting of the sun. I was reminded of the Bowie song “Memory of a Free Festival” and the lyrics of the song resonated with me. “The sun machine is going down and we are going to have a party”. This time there was no music just the quiet clicking of camera shutters. However, the fun wasn’t finished. The lights of the city came on and car headlights lights started streaking down the streets like small silver dots. Suddenly you could see into the illuminated offices hidden during the day by reflective glass. Trams and buses were gracefully moving along the streets. Particular views that I enjoyed included Moor Street station and the Birmingham canal navigations.
The view from the OctagonThe Cube103The BT TowerMosques on the skylineSnow Hill 1 to 3Moor St and the Rotunda
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Needless to say we all took so many pictures that saturation point was quickly reached and then the time came to descend back down the hoist and catch the train home. In my excitement, I forgot to get a picture of the moonrise but luckily many other photographers filled that void and I was able to see their views of the moon. One photographer Pete Davies was at Edgbaston reservoir and he captured the moonrise next to the Octagon. You can just make out the photographers on the top.
Tram passing through Victoria Square.Cars on the Expressway.
We were discussing the visit and how spectacular the tower construction was on the train home. One of the Octagon project leaders was on the same train home and he gave us a fascinating insight into how the structure had been built and what was involved in its construction. Our conversation took in previous buildings such as the Cube and what was in store for Birmingham in the future. This was a really enjoyable evening and I knew that there was still the morning sunrise to look forward to. However the weather forecast didn’t look too promising but then again we wait and see.
Final look at the sunset glow on our way home.
The sunrise shift.
Getting up at 4:00am was not easy but once I got moving, I was wide awake. After a quick breakfast and walking the dog, I drove into Birmingham and parked up in Brindley Place. Birmingham City Centre was very quiet with only a few people moving around. I walked briskly through Centenary square, past the library, into Chamberlain place and on to the Octagon for the morning session. There were far fewer photographers gathered at the base of the building. Getting up early appears to be a much more difficult activity for a photographer than the evening sunset. The weather was dull and the golden glow of yesterday evening was quickly forgotten as we checked in and made our way to the “hoist”. Soon we were back travelling on the outside of the building. This was now familiar territory and recording the journey up was much easier the second time around.
Going up the Octogen
When we arrived at the crown, the first thing I noticed was the wind and the cold. Night had not loosened its grip of the new day and the bright city lights were still shining. I got out my camera and started taking pictures. There were some opportunities to take some long exposures of the rush hour traffic that was starting to stream into the City. Reviewing other people’s photographs, I realized that I had missed some buildings and I made sure that I got St. Paul’s church and the Big Pen in the Jewellery Quarter. There were a few other places that I had forgotten all about from last night and this was the most exciting part of the visit, taking new views of the city.
The rush hour into the City along Suffolk Street Queensway.A Bus moving down Broad street.Centenary Square Cambrian Wharf.St Paul’s ChurchThe Big Pen and the JQ in the early morning mist.The mist rolls in.
Slowly the dawn crept forward and banished the dark of the night. The wind seemed to be increasing and I was glad that I had my jumper with me to add to the layers of clothers that I was wearing. A mist started rolling in and unsurprisingly, there was no sunrise but I knew the sun was out there somewhere. With my remaining time, I started looking for unusual shots around the building. BBC West Midlands radio were present, interviewing people who were getting ready for the topping out ceremony that was taking place later that day.
Interviews for BBC West Midlands Radio.
This visit was a quieter affair. Mindfulness is a wonderful feeling and I stood taking in the view which was much more rewarding than just wanting to use my camera. I had taken all the pictures that I needed and went back down the hoist for the final time. There was a touch of sadness as I had really enjoyed my two visits to the top of the Octagon. This 49 floor skyscraper is ready for future residential living and the plan is to rent out the apartments. The building will soon be completed and then the army of construction workers will move on to the next tall building. Birmingham is an exciting place and is changing all the time. I hope to go up the next building that gets finished, but in the meantime, I left with good thoughts as I wandered back through the city to my car. There were more workers out and about getting ready for the day, I had already completed a day on top of the Octagon and now I was getting ready for a second day. I looked forward to getting my pictures together and telling people how much I had enjoyed my visit to the Octagon.
Bolt and BokehHoist CallHook and crane
Acknowledgements
Many thanks to all at the Octagon who allowed these amazing visits to take place. I do hope you enjoyed reading about my visit to the Octagon. Thank you to Paradise Birmingham and Core-Marketing for the opportunity.
Sunset memories.
I have given a link to some of my other visits to skyscrapers and hope you continue to read my photographic journey.
What lies below is a theme for this and my next blog. Spaghetti Junction is 50 years old in May 2022. Millions of car drivers pass over Spaghetti Junction as they hurtle past Birmingham. Many are on the M6 heading north or south to their destination with no thought about what is below. For others the Aston Expressway is the main northern route into Birmingham and is a spur off the Junction. The sprawl of roads spit out cars to Erdington and 6 ways along the Tyburn Road. People live in Gravelly Hill immediately adjacent to the junction. The area is a mixture of concrete, noise and fumes. The Junction celebrates 50 years in May and at the time was seen as a landmark construction. Over the years it has become synonymous with Birmingham.
The layers of the Junction from the River Tame to the Signs for the Aston Expressway
As a photographer what lies below is much more interesting and is seldom seen from above. The first part of the junction to investigate is Salford circus which is the link roundabout for many of the local roads to the motorway. It is not clear what the planners had in mind but the inner pedestrian area of the junction is an unfriendly concrete jungle. It is covered in litter and graffiti tagging. It is not a place to visit alone and luckily my photographic colleague John Bray was with me. The concrete pillars are giants holding up the roads above. The area is under attack and the hero is nature as it attempts to reclaim the area.
What wonders what the planners had in mind for the underpasses.The sound of broken glassNature is fighting back on the concrete.Tagging and signsHaving someone with you when visiting is essential.
Kicking our way through the rubbish we make ouir way through the underpasses and cross the busy junction to reach the canal access steps. Running under the Motorway the canals also make a junction. There is where three canals come together namely the Birmingham and Fazeley, the Tame Valley and the Birmingham and Warwick Junction canals. Flowing alongside the canals is the River Tame. The area has numerous bridges criss crossing the canal and the light peeks through vents above. There are grafitti strewn around the place. Cyclists and walkers move around in a surreal dance. Walking eastwards the Motorway passes Star City and the area is reminiscent of many TV programmes. This is probably because a great deal of car chase filming takes place around here.
Concrete everywhereAccess to the canalStarting to explore underneath.A view of the Star City entertainment complexA place where many movies car chases are filmed.
Moving westwards there is a bridge tunnel where there is graffiti which in the past was renowned for its beauty and craftsmanship in previous years. When we visited, there was just a white washed wall with a prison window. I am unsure of the meaning of this painting. The site is used as there is a shaft of light that comes down from above the junction onto the canalside.
Underneath the heart of the junction.The “prison window” graffiti. Reflections and stagnations in the water.The deep green canal.Traffic thunders above.Constant repair of the road structure goes on.Looking back along the canal.Bolts hold the roads together.
The canal path leads under all the roads that form the Junction and there is repair work on several of the bridges. A path along the Aston Expressway eventually comes out onto Aston reservoir. This is a hidden feature in the shadows of the Motorway. It is relatively peaceful and a contrast to the distant noise of the traffic. Moving along the perimeter and keeping the river Tame in view, there are trees and shrubs which are reclaiming the land underneath the tarmac. This becomes the end of our journey underneath Spaghetti junction, and we head home back on the M6.
Aston ReservoirSpring Blossom against the concrete pillars.
There are likely to be birthday celebrations on its big 50 birthday but meanwhile here is a BBC link celebrating 40 years.
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